IRISH RECIPES WITH AN ITALIAN ACCENT

Celebrate St. Patrick’s Day, Italian Style

Is it any wonder that Cucina della Terra would choose some deliciously fresh shellfish to create an Irish recipe with an Italian accent? Una faccia, una razza,.” Or, “one face, one race,” which couldn’t be closer to the truth, when you’re considering the striking similarities between Ireland and Italy. The two “I” countries’ respective flags bear their kinship – Italy: three vertical stripes, green, white and red, and Ireland: three vertical stripes, green, white, and orange. But beyond that superficial symbol of national pride, both countries share a common religion, fighting spirit, and artistic flair. And now never have the twain met more than in my composed melting-pot of a dish.

Celebrate the green with a bowl of steaming Shellfish & Spinach Pasta, served with a crisp Greco di Tufo from Campania, recommended by one of our favorite wine shops in New York, De-Vino . Save the soda-bread for dessert!

spinach linguini with shellfish

MAKES 4 SERVINGS

Ingredients

3/4 lb imported Italian spinach linguini

1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil

2 cloves garlic, finely minced

4 tablespoons parsley, minced

1 tablespoon chives, minced

Pinch of red pepper flakes

1/2 lb (about 12) baby clams in their shells, scrubbed

2/3 lb (about 24) mussels, scrubbed & debearded

12 ounces (about 6pc)scallops, mussels removed

Salt & pepper to taste

3/4 cup dry Italian white wine

2 tablespoons of unsalted butter (optional)

Procedure

Before beginning to cook the shellfish, have a large pot of salted boiling water ready to cook the pasta.

1. Soak the clams in a large bowl of cold water for 10 minutes.  Scrub the clamshells. If any clams are open, tap them against the surface of the table. Repeat the soaking once more. If they continue to remain open discard them because they are dead.

2. Scrub the mussels and pull the bristly beard that may be protruding from the rim. If any mussels are open, tap them against the surface of the table. If they continue to remain open discard them because they are dead.

3. Pull off the thick rubbery mussel that sometimes remains on the side of each scallop. Discard. Cut the scallops in half crosswise, giving you a scallop about 1/4 inch thick.

4. Place a sauté pan large enough to accommodate the shellfish, over medium high heat.  Add the olive oil and let the oil warm up for a few seconds.  Add the red pepper.

5. Add the clams and mussels and season with salt & pepper. Sprinkle the minced garlic and parsley over the shellfish. Stir for a minute.  Pour the   wine into the pan and continue to stir for another minute.  Cover the pan and cook until the shellfish start to open. As they open, remove them from the pan into a bowl. When all have opened, take the liquid remaining in the pan and pour it through a strainer lined with cheesecloth and placed over a clean bowl to capture the liquid.  This will remove any sand.

6. Add a little more oil to the pan.  When heated, sear the scallops for a minute until golden.  Sprinkle salt and pepper over them. Remove to a plate.

7.When the water is boiling add the pasta and cook until al dente.  Drain the pasta in a colander.

8.While the pasta is cooking, return the mussels, clams and scallops to the pot along with the juices that were strained. Place the heat on medium high. Remove a cup of water from the pot in which the pasta is cooking and pour over the shellfish.  Add a little more freshly minced parsley.  Stir.  Drain the pasta when it is cooked, shaking the colander up and down to remove excess water.  Pour the pasta into the pot in which the shellfish was cooking or into a large bowl.  Stir everything together and serve piping hot.

WINTER SOUP FOR AN ITALIAN PANTRY

Winter Soup

Kale & White Bean Soup

Makes 6 servings

Ingredients

1 tablespoon diced pancetta

1 cup ¼ inch diced onion, peeled

1 cup ¼ inch diced celery, peeled

1 cup ¼ inch diced carrot, peeled

Pinch salt & pepper

1 can (450 grams) canned cannellini beans

4 cups chopped lacinato (a variety) kale

1 qt chicken stock

1 bay leaf

1 clove garlic peeled &minced

Sprig of thyme

Rind of parmegiano cheese

Olive oil

1/2 cup grated parmegiano

Procedure

Preliminary:  remove the ribs of the kale, chop the leaves and rinse

Heat enough olive oil to thinly coat the bottom of a soup pot.  Add the pancetta and cook for 2 minutes to render the fat.  Add the onions, celery & carrots. Add a good pinch of salt & black pepper.  Cover the pot and cook over low heat until the vegetables are soft, about 10 minutes.

Add the kale, turning the kale until the kale is wilted.

Meanwhile, drain the beans.  When the vegetables are soft, add the beans , stock, bay leaf, thyme , garlic and rind of the parmegiano. Cover the pan and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes.

Remove the bay leaf, thyme sprigs and cheese rind. Season with grated parmegiano cheese.

SALAD SPINNERS

Salad Spinners


Walking along Madison Square Park I noticed IGUZZINI blazoned on the windows of 40 Madison.  I’ve loved Guzzini products since the ‘80’s when I used some of their stylish line of clear lucite in my business catering to fashion designers and corporate entities.  Today, I love the Guzzini salad spinners.  I use them in Cucina della Terra, my cooking school in Italy.

Brighter, bolder in color, with high style and valuable function, it’s a must for your kitchens.  The salad spinners, featured here were brought over by me from Italy for my not so kitchen savvy sister who couldn’t make up her mind when I skyped her 3000 miles away:  small salad spinner or large salad spinner.

What we like about it:

  • Fun bright colors
  • Comes in multiple sizes
  • Great centrifugal function
  • New model has collapsible knob, making storage easier.You can stack things on top without toppling
  • And, for those of you who have limited storage space, the base doubles as a prep bowl and the insert doubles as a colander.

What qualifies a great salad spinner ?  If the lettuces are dry after the spin and lots of water has collected at the bottom .

Here’s to clean greens!

EASY HOLIDAY COOKING

Are you prepared for the meals & entertaining blitz that’s around the corner? My sister Patricia is great as a stylist, but when it comes to the kitchen, I have to put her on kitchen clean-up duty. Here are some great tips to help you avoid that frazzled feeling that makes you want to head to a deserted island .

1. Make a list of your recipes including all your ingredients and equipment

2. In choosing your dishes, consider how much of any 1 appliance will be required.  There’s nothing worse than trying to fit a potato gratin into an oven with 1 rack and a 12 lb roast.

3. Do you have the right equipment? Your 8 in skillet may not accommodate that 4 lb batch of mushrooms.

4. Do you have an adequate supply of baking sheets?  They are invaluable for holding food while you are cooking small batches of anything.

5. Do you have alot of square and rectangular containers with flat lids? These will make efficient use of refrigerator and freezer space letting you prepare in adavance.

6. What can you do the day before, or a week before?  Read your recipes and list everything that can be prepped at least a day before.

And don’t forget to ask for help from you friends and family before the party begins.  The kitchen is part work, part entertainment.

Buon Apetito!

Italian White Wines ?

There’s more to Italian wine than Tuscan reds and Pinot Grigio.  A few weeks ago I was out to dinner at Oevo, a comfortable Italian restaurant in Great Neck, New York serving some delicious Italian food that is both honest and tasty.  As I was looking over the wine list, I noticed a familiar wine from Umbria, the Grechetto.  It’s become a favorite of mine when I’m at my school in Umbria because it is light, easy to drink and works with a number of different foods.  It’s also easy on the pocket. Unfortunately, the cellar was out of stock and the sommelier mentioned that the grechetto remains overlooked because it is still unknown in the states.  That’s too bad because the wine has far more character than the perennial favorite, Pinot Grigio.  It has a nice acidity and hints of apple and pear.  Perfect for soups, pasta and rice dishes.

Grechetto is a grape, often blended, as in the Orvieto, however one of my favorites, is 100% Grechetto from a delightful winery in Montefalco, called Scacciadiavoli.  When I was visiting the winery and met Liu Pambuffetti, a knowledgeable vintner I was impressed by the freshness of the wine.  The experience motivated me to start searching out this wine on my return to New York.  I’m wondering how many other people are looking for the same thing…..

At the “Mercato” in Castiglione del Lago

Every Wednesday morning, I climb up a stone stairway. At the top, trucks line outside the walls of Castiglione del Lago snaking up into the centro storico along Via Vittorio Emanuele, the main drag. Everything from the best local & regional fruits, vegetables, and plants to inexpensive cotton towels, cheap socks, tee shirts, shoes and house wares can be found here at a “good “price.  Hence the term “buon mercato” referring to the “good prices”.

Going to the mercato is not a chore where you have to pick up your provisions, but rather a thoroughly enjoyable social event that can last up to 3 hours. The vendors get to know you by name.  Everything begins with an enthusiastic “Buon Giorno” followed by a little chiacchiere “chatter.

Over the years, I’ve come to love the fruits and vegetables from Gianluca & Carla at TuttoFrutta.  I never “touch” anything.  Instead I ask. They pick out the best, bag it, and hold it until I’m finished shopping.  You see, a true seller knows that too many hands spoil the produce.

Next, it’s on to the center of the town where I’ll slide by the stalls and walk into the antico forno to ask Paola for my daily dose of some focaccia and biscotti.  The focaccia changes daily, from onions, salt or rosemary to artichokes, tomato, zucchini or prosciutto.  As for the biscotti there is a select variety of dry cookies studded with all sorts of nuts or filled with jam or chocolate, all made by hand in small production. You won’t find their delicious bombolini (doughnuts filled with either jam or cream) until Sunday. However, there is a selection of small tortas filled with apples or jam.

There’s a Libreria Cartoleria Marina (bookstore) stocked with any topic you need (providing you read Italian), in addition to a select assortment of language books, dictionaries, gardening, cooking, fountain pens, paper, gift cards, birthday cards, anniversary cards, gift wrap paper, etc, etc.  The donna (woman) is dedicated to helping you find what you need.

“ La Cantina” offers a highly prized selection of Italian regional products.  I can get my most favorite 12 or 8 year balsamic, DOP olive oil and some truly wonderful wines, legumes, honey, & farro.

A small shop called Calosi Cashmere sells locally produced cashmere sweaters & scarves, for both men & women.  I started acquiring these two years ago when the famous fog of Umbria descended during the winter months and I look forward to weather that stimulates another trip to Colossi.

And , then there is Ceramiche San Marco, store…. A gentle elderly man oversees his family’s shop of hand painted and fired ceramic.  If I see something that I’d like in another design, he can usually order it for me.  I’ll have it within a week.

Roberto, the proprietor of Osteria Le Scalette, houses a great selection of regional wines from Umbria and Tuscany at fair prices. Tell him what you are serving for dinner and he may suggest a Sagrantino di Montefalco, or a Sangiovese, Grechetto, Chianti, Vino Nobile di Montepulciano, Rosso di Montepulciano or Orvieto.

The Battilani Family sells from 5 different shops, 4 of which are in the center of town.  Here, you can purchase some great salumeri, stagionato pecorino from Norcia, regional wines .  One of their shops is now selling panini for the hungry traveling by foot or bike. For those who have the luxury of cooking for themselves, the Battalani’s have a renowned macelleria overseen by Signora Alda, 81 years with the energy of a 20 year old.  What I love about Signora Alda, is her furtive look as she slips me the end of a prosciutto bone or a few extra sausages.

Further on down outside of the main center is Laura’s Pasticerria…. This is another great place for your morning cornetto & cappuccino.  Laura’s cornetto has made me appreciate the technical difference between a cornetto and a croissant.  The cornetto is crisp, light, laminated, but less rich.  I like it filled with jam.  This is the perfect example of a local café.  Newspapers are available on the tables, locals come in and are greeted by name, and there is always lots of chatter .

From Castiglione del Lago…. arriverderci until my next blog.

Italian Cooking Class, Pasta

For those who think homemade pasta is a burden, take a look at this.  It’s monday night.  I just came home from work.  There are four things in my kitchen that will make a meal tonight with very little work.  They are:  malfatti, which means badly cut pasta but in fact are leftover cuttings from another pasta; duck sauce, frozen and saved from a previous sauce making day; parmegiano, always in my refrigerator; and wine, also a staple.  My friend and I are enjoying a wonderful afterwork dinner that took less than 30 minutes to pull together.

I hope you will begin to enjoy the fruits of your pasta and sauce making labors!  Bon appetito.

Italian Cooking Class, Pasta

I love making fresh pasta and I love eating it. My freezer is kept stocked with my favorite homemade sauces: bolognese, duck ragu, wild boar ragu, and tomato sauce.  At any time, I can whip up a batch of pasta either by hand or with a Kitchen Aid.  I roll it out immediately on the first setting until it reaches the width of the pasta roller.  It gets covered with plastic wrap and rests on the counter while I heat up the sauce and grate the cheese.  Depending on the type of sauce, it is either a meal in itself or prelude to a simple roast or sauteed meat.

Fresh Egg Pasta for Tagliatelle

100 grams of 00 flour per person

1 large egg per 100 grams of flour

Place the eggs in the bowl of a mixer .  Add all the flour . Mix on low speed using the dough hook.  Every few minutes stop the mixer and push down any flour that has collected on the sides of the bowl.  Continue to mix the dough until it forms a soft ball that comes away from the sides of the bowl.  The dough will be soft but not sticky.

Cut the dough into 100 gram portions.  Flatten each piece out and run it through the first setting of the roller.  Fold in half, and continue to run it through the first setting.  Repeat 5 or 6 times until the dough is smooth and shiny.  Wrap in plastic and let it rest while you prepare your sauce.

Once again, flatten each piece of dough and feed it through the first setting. Follow with the second and continue up through the sixth setting.  By this time your dough should be thin enough for a flat noodle like tagliatelle.

Lay the sheet of dough on a cool, lightly floured surface. Each sheet should be about 15 inches long.   Bring each end into the center . Bring the outside folds into the center again.  Using a chef’s knife, cut the dough into 1/4 inch slices.  Unravel each ribbon.  If the dough sticks to itself, you need to add more flour.

Scatter the ribbon noodles on a lightly floured pan.  Bring a pot of salted water to a boil.  When ready to serve, add the pasta to the boiling water , stir once and boil the pasta for about a minute.  Test one by biting into it.  It should be toothsome, not mushy.  Drain in a colander and return to the pot.  Add just enough of your favorite sauce, toss, sprinkle grated parmegian cheese and open the wine.

Caramelized Onions

This is for Will who, after reading my piece on artichoke pizza with caramelized onions, wrote:  “Caramelized onions are the best thing that have happened to my burgers since cheese” and “that it takes fooorever”.

Here’s a tip. Start the onions first. While they are caramelizing, move to the rest of the preparations for your meal. You’ve got 30 minutes.

Heat a little olive oil in a heavy bottomed pot (I love Le Creuset for this) , add the sliced or diced onions, quickly sauté over medium high heat for 5 minutes, stirring from time to time.  Lower the heat, cover the pot and cook for 25 minutes.  Stir from time to time to evenly distibute the browning.  Your onions should be deliciously wilted, caramelized to perfection.

Oh, and by the way, Onions are a member of the lily family and have been around since 3000 BCE.  They have sulfuric compounds that are known to inhibit cancer.  Remember, browning occurs at 300 degrees or more, so refrain from adding liquid which will forestall the browning.

Here are some pics , before, during, after.

How Do I Get Past The Hype?

This past week I had the pleasure of speaking to a group of students in “Using Public Relations as a Marketing Tool” taught by Howard Geltzer at New York University.   As I was preparing my presentation I felt compelled to bring real food into an academic environment since my business is about food and culinary travel. Of course, I don’t think Howard expected me to devote time to a tasting.  While he was presenting the agenda, I was trying to figure out where I could slip this surprise in without causing too much disruption. I was a guest and Howard was the host, educator and consummate PR man.

Words can be powerful but they are no substitute for the sensory experience of taste and smell.  If I was going to talk about my business, Cucina della Terra, a cooking school in Italy, 3000 miles away, I needed to demonstrate how certain foods are distinctive and worthy of a trip to the country of origin.

By the time I reached the classroom I was loaded down with shopping bags filled with napkins, paring knife, parmegiano reggiano, an Argentine reginatto, a 25 year old balsamic vinegar and a highly commercial unaged balsamic, sliced ciabatta, and two bottles of olive oil: one from my own harvest in 2008, and one from Sicily that was unfiltered but with no DOP status, and of course some wet wipes. While everyone else had briefcases and computers slung over their shoulders, I was schlepping shopping bags of food.  Talk about feeling like the New York bag lady.

In a very simple way, I created a contrast of tastes.

To a group of students focused on a topic in business, there attention was diverted to thinking about the food in front of them.  Packaging became less important than the experience of taste and the quality of what we tasted.   Ultimately where our food comes from and how it is produced is far more important. So, the next time you are reaching for a highly publicized product, think about why and for what you are putting your money down  - and ask yourself if it’s worth it.